Delicious Days of Christmas

Dreaming of a white Christmas? Dream on. If you are spending Christmas in Mexico, you won’t see much white, but then you also won’t miss it. The festivities here are vibrant and meaningful in a more-than-a-month long colourful celebration that begins on December 16^th with the Posadas (special processions) and doesn’t end until February 2^nd when the Nacimiento (Nativity Scene) is finally put away. During that time there are Pageants, Pastorelas, Pinatas and Parties, and lots of memorable foods and drinks along the way.

Posadas is the first celebration. From the nine days before Christmas, little processions take place, with candle-holding followers being led by Joseph and Mary. Traditionally it’s four boys of the same height carrying small statues of Virgen María, and San José. Or, you might see a costumed Mary perched on a donkey led by a diminutive Joseph. Depending on the elaborateness of the particular village procession there can be other costumed children as angels, shepherds and kings. The pilgrims walk from door to door, asking for shelter until a manger is found.  A Nacimiento (Nativity Scene) is set out in most homes, and also in public places. When the pilgrims have journeyed long enough, they find a Manger, and a holy prayer is chanted by everyone. This celebration culminates on the 24th, Christmas Eve, known as the Noche Buena or the 'Holy Night'.

Pastorelas

Pastorelas (Shepherds Plays) are staged throughout the holiday season by both amateur and professional groups. Traditionally improvised, these theatrical presentations date back to Mexico's Colonial period when Roman Catholic missionaries wooed converts and taught doctrine through dramatizations of Biblical stories.

The light, almost comedic skits tell a tale where good triumphs over evil. As the shepherds attempt to follow a great star, the promised emblem of Hope, they are plagued by a series of misadventures, presumably provoked by the devil. In the proverbial all's-well-that-ends-well finale, the shepherds reach their destination and their perseverance is rewarded.

Piñatas

Piñatas are a common celebration game for children which, some say, originated at Christmas. Today they play a role in the party revelry surrounding the Posadas. The most traditional piñata shape is the bulbous 7 pointed star. The points represent the 7 deadly sins, (pride, anger, greed, gluttony, lust, anger, greed, sloth) and the act of breaking the piñata is symbolic of the birth of Jesus and his role in washing away the sins of mankind. So, a festively decorated Piñata, is filled with candies and other goodies. The children take turns trying to break it, while blindfolded – a task more difficult that one might think! Like the shepherds pursuit of the star, the game ends when someone’s effort is successful and one and all are rewarded with a shower of fruits, sugar cane and little candies.

Ponche con Piquete is a hot punch made with fresh and dried fruits, brown sugar, cinnamon, cloves and rum. Traditionally served during the parties that ensue at Posadas I like to think of it as a spirited Piñata-in-a-cup, for grown ups!

Noche Buena

This is the climax of the pre-christmas festivities of las Posadas. On Holy Night, or Christmas Eve, everyone gathers for midnight mass and following that the major Christmas dinner with friends and family. There is dinner for the orphans in the manger in the Nativity scene. In the past, Christmas gifts weren't distributed on the Christmas eve, but now as the times are changing, 'Santa Clos ' is seen giving out gifts.

At The Little Mexican Cooking School, in Puerto Morelos we teach as much about the traditions of family life surrounding the food as we do the recipes themselves. And, Navidad, an especially favoured holiday time, is no exception.

For Chef Pablo, who was born and raised in Mexico City, Bacalao a la Vizcaina is his treasured memorable dish.  Traditionally made with Salt-cured Codfish, Olives, Peppers, Tomatoes and Potatoes,  Bacalao is served as a first course, prior to the Roasted Turkey. Pablo says his mother’s recipe is ‘to die for’ and she uses it as the main event of Noche Buena. The recipe now has as many variations as there are serious home cooks, but critical to all versions is the gentle soaking in several changes of water over a 24 hour period before preparing the dish. The purpose, of course it to remove all traces of the salt. Why, you might wonder is Salt Cod used? The answer takes us back to Colonial times, when the act of creating a special dish involved utilizing the items at hand. Salt cod and olives from the Spaniards ship stores, thus married beautifully with the New World ingredients they found on Mexican soil. Bacalao was born and lives on vibrantly commemorating the feasts on Holy Night.

The secret to a good Bacalau lies in using a good olive oil. It is eaten simply with French Bread and if you are impossibly lucky enough to have some left over, it is excellent for Recalentado (the next day’s leftovers!)

Bacalao a la Vizcaina

A generous splash of good olive oil

1 white onion, fine chopped

3 cloves garlic, finely minced

1 lb Roma tomatoes, roasted, peeled & diced

1/2 cup green olives

1 green bell pepper charred, peeled and diced

1 tsp black pepper

3 bay leaves

2 whole cloves

1 sprig of thyme

1 tbsp sugar

10 baby potatoes, scrubbed and cut in half

1-2 carrots, peeled and cut in rounds

3 Guero (blonde) chiles

1 1/2 lb salted cod

1 cup chopped parsley

Place the cod in fresh water 24 hrs before starting the recipe. Change the water every 6 hrs. The next day, shred the fish to remove the bones and reserve some of the water from the last bath.

Heat some olive oil in a large pot, add the onions and cook for 5 minutes, add the garlic and keep cooking for another 3 minutes stirring so it does not burn.

Bring the tomatoes and the rest of the ingredients to the pot. Add and the fish with the water and cook over medium heat until the potatoes are done -- about 35 minutes. Add the parsley and check the seasoning. Cook for another 15 minutes checking that it has enough liquid.

Serve with slices of toasted French bread.